The first batch of peaches have hit the farmers market, so it’s time to make some super fresh, super peachy desserts. We went to Chef Matthew Safranek of 350 on Main to see what he’s whipping up for his dessert specials. With his fresh Goldbud peaches, he prepared honey cannelés with lavender semifreddo, lemon mousse and toasted pistachios. Sound intimidating? While this recipe is a bit of a process, he gave us all the details and tips. Wow your friends at your next dinner party with chef’s recipes and notes below! And besides being a brilliant chef, he’s extremely entertaining so read on, roll up your sleeves and take chef’s biggest tip to heart, “You have this. I believe in you!”
Only use a premium tree ripe peach. If the Utah ones are on, then get after them. Goldbud peaches are available around the summer months out of California. You have to order directly from the farm. They are insane, both flavor and cost. Overnight delivery costs twice as much as the peaches. As a serious splurge, though they are totally worth it. I never liked fresh peaches until I had one and it was an epiphany, to be hyperbolic. Buy a case for a dinner party if you wanna serve the whole recipe. After you taste one you may find that suddenly you don’t have many left.
The most difficult thing is cooking the cannelés. They are supposed to be dark, really dark, but not burned. If you would like something lighter for personal taste, then that is your prerogative. Just lower the cooking temperature by about 50 degrees.
I work out of a convection oven. If you do not have access to one, and I assume many of you don’t then just raise the temperature of your oven by 50 degrees.
The texture when cooled to room temperature is crispy on the outside and vaguely custardy on the inside. When you pull them from the oven they will still be soft. Do not panic. Things made of sugar and protein like meringues crisp up once they get cool. Give them their time. Relax. Have another glass of wine (or two).
I have read through many and have used quite a few recipes. Most recipes run at super high heat, then drop the temperature. I run at lower heat for the same time used in most recipes and they turn out fine. Mine has been heavily tweaked to accommodate the honey in place of the sugar and part of the milk. It is very runny, similar to a crepe batter. Do not expect to do this in one afternoon. Prep the batter the day before you need. I would start the mousse and semifreddo two days before. This will give them time to cool fully so you can whip them properly. If the cream is not below roughly 40 degrees they will not whip to full volume and you will only find frustration, and nobody wants that.
I also skip the bee’s wax and copper molds used in traditional recipes. Once again, this is your call. I don’t do it. A good non-stick muffin pan or silicon pan will work fine.
I play loosely with the term “mousse.” It is nothing more than a flavored whipped cream, but people don’t get as excited about ”whipped cream” as they do “mousse.” So, “mousse” it is.
Don’t be afraid of mistakes and failure, especially when trying something new. It’s how you become a better cook. I know I have messed up a bunch. Shrug it off and try again. So here we go…
Read through the recipe a couple of times, focus on every word and step. The procedure gets a little wild when making the cannelés, and that’s probably my fault, but do not let it intimidate you. You have this. I believe in you!
TWO DAYS BEFORE
Pistachio Garnish
½ cup shelled raw pistachios
Toast at 300 degrees for about 20 minutes, rough chop and set aside for plating. You are not looking to really brown them or change their flavor. You just want then dry and crunchy.
Lemon Mousse
1 pint heavy cream
½ cup granulated sugar
2 each lemons, zest only
Yellow food coloring, if desired
Bring to a simmer, then strain and cool completely. Keep it in your fridge until ready to plate. You don’t have to strain it. I do for visual refinement on the plate, but the bits of zest will give you little pops of citrus flavor, if you’re into that.
Lavender Semifreddo
1 vanilla bean split and scraped
1 pint heavy cream
¼ cup dried lavender leaves
½ cup granulated sugar
plum food coloring, if desired
Bring to a simmer, then strain. Cool overnight to prepare for whipping the following day. Definitely strain this one. A mouth full of lavender blossoms is not all that great – at least in my opinion.
THE DAY BEFORE
Honey Cannelé Batter
1 whole egg
1 egg white
2 tablespoons dark rum
Whisk together in a large metal bowl and set aside
4 vanilla beans spit and scraped, or 4 teaspoons vanilla extract (if you use extract add it at the eggs with the rum)
3 ½ cups + 1 tablespoon whole milk
1 cup sugar
1 cup honey
2 pinches fine, non-iodized salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
Bring to a simmer and strain out vanilla bean pods. Dry them and add them to your sugar, if you want. I won’t judge.
Now you are going to need a immersion blender. Put it in your milk and honey mix and let that sucker hum! Slowly, add in 1 ½ cups all purpose flour. Mix it until smooth. Don’t leave lumps. This isn’t pancake batter.
So now that you are done mixing in the flour, slowly stream it into the egg mix. Once you have about ¼ of it mixed in, go ahead and add the rest. Whisk the hell out of it, and let it cool to room temperature then store it in your fridge overnight. Some of the flour and most of the vanilla bean will separate out overnight. That’s normal.
Lavender Semifreddo, continued
½ cup light corn syrup or agave
2 egg yolks(I use pasteurized egg yolks[1.2 oz] to avoid any unforeseen issues)
¼ cup mascarpone or buttermilk cheese(I make buttermilk cheese, so that’s what I use)
Whisk together until smooth in a metal mixing bowl
In a Kitchen Aid or whatever similar appliance, or by hand if you have the stamina, whisk the lavender cream to stiff peaks. Fold half of it into the egg mix, then fold in the remaining half. freeze it in a lidded plastic container overnight.
FINALLY, THE DAY OF!
1) Preheat your oven to 325 degrees
2) Lightly spray an 18 hole muffin tin with a neutral flavored oil. Olive oil would add a subtle new dimension though.
3) Use a spatula to gently fold the batter back together. Do not be aggressive with it. You do not want to have it soufflé in the oven. Yes, it will rise a little. They should not double in size though.
4) Divide the batter up in the muffin pan and bake for 45 minutes to an hour, turn it every 15 minutes. When the exposed surface looks good and dark, pull them out and turn out onto a cooling rack. If they do not come out immediately, try using the tip of a pairing knife, and gently pull them away from the sides, remember they will be soft. You can also let them cool for a few minutes in the pan if that doesn’t work, then try turning them out. No one’s life is in the balance.
5) While the cannelés are cooling, whip the lemon mousse to stiff peaks. Transfer to a piping bag with a star tip for plating.
6) Cut a peach in half and remove the pit. Slice each half thinly. Chiffonade a little fresh basil, if you have it. Tarragon leaves would also be refreshing. Or fennel fronds. (Shrugs.)
7) When the cannelés are completely cool, sprinkle a little pistachio on the plate. Scoop a quenelle of semifreddo if you do that, or just use an ice cream scoop and place it on top of the pistachio. Place the sliced Goldbud adjacent to the semifreddo, top it with the cannelé. Pipe a few stars of lemon mouse around the plate. Scatter your basil.
Don’t over think it. Just do it.
